County Tipperary Ireland · Co. Tipperary · Ballylooby Save · Share
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BALLYLOOBY
CO. TIPPERARY · IE

Ballylooby
Béal Átha Lúbaigh, Co. Tipperary

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 05 / 05
Béal Átha Lúbaigh · Co. Tipperary

Seven kilometres from Cahir, halfway to the Vee, easy to miss and worth not missing.

Ballylooby is easy to describe: a small village on the R668 between Cahir and Clogheen, roughly seven kilometres south of Cahir, midway between a castle town and a mountain. In 1889 Bassett's Directory recorded it as fourteen houses. It hasn't grown much. The Irish name - Béal Átha Lúbaigh - means the mouth of Looby's Ford, which places its origin at a river crossing that was here long before the road.

What stops you here, if anything does, is the Church of Our Lady and St. Kieran, a plain limestone building put up in 1813 and extended in 1927 by the Dublin architect Rudolf Maximilian Butler. The interior has a hammer-beam roof and an ornate marble reredos - more than the exterior suggests. The land deal to build it went badly: a Patrick Burke sold the extra ground required, then changed his mind, erected a wall inside the building and sued the parishioners for trespass. The case ran for years and was eventually settled in their favour. The wall is gone. The church remains, sitting in a fold of the south Tipperary land that the Knockmealdowns close off to the south.

The village is best understood as a place people came from rather than a place people came to. One of those people was Michael Tierney, born here in September 1839, who emigrated, was ordained a priest, and in 1894 was appointed the sixth Bishop of Hartford, Connecticut, by Pope Leo XIII. During his fourteen years in the diocese he founded St Thomas Seminary, five hospitals, and dozens of charitable institutions. Another was Tommy Ryan, who played football and hurling for Ballylooby-Castlegrace and was on the Tipperary team in Croke Park on the morning of 21 November 1920 - Bloody Sunday - when the Black and Tans fired into the crowd. Ryan was knocked to the ground, stripped, and held at gunpoint before an officer intervened and had the remaining players released. He survived. Most of them did. Fourteen in the crowd did not.

Population
~250
Walk score
Village end to end in five minutes
Coords
52.3167° N, 7.9667° W
01 / 05

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 05

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Born here, buried in Hartford

Michael Tierney

Michael Tierney was born in Ballylooby on 29 September 1839, the son of John and Judith Tierney. He emigrated to the United States, trained for the priesthood, and on 2 December 1893 was appointed the sixth Bishop of Hartford, Connecticut, by Pope Leo XIII. He was consecrated on 22 February 1894 and held the post until his death on 5 October 1908. In those fourteen years he founded St Thomas Seminary in Bloomfield, St Mary's Home for the Aged, St John's Industrial School, and hospitals in Hartford, New Haven, Bridgeport, Waterbury and Willimantic. When he arrived, the diocese had 98 parishes and 204 priests; when he died, 166 parishes and 300. The diocese knew what it had. Ballylooby did not make a fuss of it.

Bloody Sunday, 21 November 1920

Tommy Ryan

Tommy Ryan played for Ballylooby-Castlegrace and was on the Tipperary team that took the field in Croke Park on the morning of 21 November 1920. That morning, Michael Collins's intelligence officers had killed fourteen British agents across Dublin. That afternoon, the Auxiliaries and Black and Tans arrived at Croke Park in lorries and opened fire on the crowd. Fourteen people died; one of them was Tipperary's Michael Hogan. Ryan went to Hogan on the pitch, tried to lift him, and knew he was badly injured. Ryan was then knocked to the ground, stripped naked, and held at gunpoint. A British officer intervened before he was shot and ordered the surviving players released. Dan Breen had sent word that morning to tell Ryan not to come - he was a known IRA man. Ryan came anyway; he wouldn't let the team down. He lived to tell it.

1813 - a land deal that became a lawsuit

The wall inside the church

When the parish needed to build a new church in 1813 - the previous one too small for the growing congregation - an extra twenty-six perches of ground were purchased from a local landowner named Patrick Burke. Burke subsequently changed his mind about the arrangement, erected a physical wall inside the completed church building, and issued writs of trespass against parishioners who crossed it. The dispute ran through the courts for several years before being settled in favour of the parish. The wall was removed. The Church of Our Lady and St. Kieran was extended and remodelled in 1927 by the Dublin architect Rudolf Maximilian Butler, and now has a hammer-beam roof, limestone dressings, and stained-glass windows. The story of the wall inside a church is the kind of thing a parish does not forget.

03 / 05

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Late May is the time for the Vee road south of here, when the rhododendrons on the Knockmealdown slopes go deep pink. Ballylooby is a natural stop on the drive.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The R668 carries more traffic but never crowds. Long evenings make the mountain road worth driving twice.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The best light. Heather turning on the Knockmealdowns, quiet roads, the church and the surrounding land at their most themselves.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The Vee road beyond Clogheen can close in ice and snow. Ballylooby itself is fine; the mountain is not always passable. Check road conditions if you're heading south.

◐ Mind yourself
04 / 05

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating Ballylooby as a destination in its own right

It isn't one. It's a place on a road to a mountain, with a church worth a look and two stories worth knowing. Build the stop around that, then keep going to Clogheen and the Vee.

×
Passing through without stopping at the church

The exterior is plain. The interior - hammer-beam roof, marble reredos, the full story of the wall - takes ten minutes and repays them.

+

Getting there.

By car

Cahir to Ballylooby is about 7 km south on the R668 - ten minutes. Clogheen is a further 8 km south on the same road. There is no car park as such; the village is small enough that pulling over is fine.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 355 (Clonmel-Cahir-Tipperary Town) does not serve Ballylooby directly. The nearest stop is Cahir. From there it is a short drive or taxi south on the R668.

By train

No station. Cahir is the nearest, on the Limerick-Waterford line, about 7 km north.

By air

Cork Airport is about 1h 30m by car. Shannon is 1h 30m. Dublin is just under 2 hours.