County Westmeath Ireland · Co. Westmeath · Raharney Save · Share
POSTED FROM
RAHARNEY
CO. WESTMEATH · IE

Raharney
Ráth Fhearna, Co. Westmeath

The Ireland's Hidden Heartlands
STOP 09 / 09
Ráth Fhearna · Co. Westmeath

A 221-person village that hurls like a parish four times its size.

Raharney is a one-street village in east Westmeath, eighteen kilometres from Mullingar on the R156 toward Delvin. It is the last village in the county before the bogland that separates Westmeath from Meath. The River Deel crosses under a triple-arched stone bridge in the middle of the village, a tributary of the Boyne working its way south-east. There were 221 people here at the last census that counted the village on its own. There is a church, a shop, a pub, a bridge and a hurling pitch. That is most of what is here, and the village does not pretend otherwise.

What carries the place is the hurling. Westmeath is a footballing county. Raharney is the exception. The club began as Raharney Rovers, a football club first mentioned in 1886, then was reborn as a hurling outfit in 1904 - when two stonemason brothers working on the renovation of St Brigid's Church got chatting with a local man - and won its first county senior title in 1913. Fifteen titles later, in a county with only a handful of hurling clubs, Raharney is the one the others measure themselves against. The pitch is behind the church. Sundays in summer, the village doubles in size.

Do not come here for a weekend. Come on a championship Sunday, or pass through on the road from Mullingar to Trim and stop on the bridge for five minutes. The Deel is small. The village is smaller. But the parish punches above its weight in the one game that matters here, and that is the whole story.

Population
221 (2016)
Pubs
1and counting
Walk score
One street, one bridge, ten minutes end to end
Founded
Ringfort site (National Monument 572); triple-arched bridge renovated under famine relief, 1848
Coords
53.5333° N, 7.1167° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Granite

The one pub, family-run
Village bar, centre of Raharney

Also known as McHugh's - the bus stop into Dublin is literally signed Raharney (McHugh's). Run as a family business by Valerie and Loughlin McHugh in the middle of the village. It is the social centre of the place: pints at the weekend, the Westmeath darts league finals, and the obvious spot to land after a championship Sunday at the pitch up the road. It is the village pub, so it is the village pub - do not expect a gastro menu, expect a proper local bar.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Nanny Quinn's Restaurant & bar, Thomastown Harbour (5 km) €€ Not in Raharney but five kilometres out at Thomastown Harbour on the Royal Canal Greenway. Fresh, local, home-cooked food with the sweet treats a speciality - a useful stop if you are walking or cycling the canal. The nearest proper sit-down meal to the village.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Cunningham's B&B and old-style pub, Killucan (4 km) Beside the Royal Canal Greenway near Killucan, four kilometres west. An old-style pub running rooms alongside, in a quiet countryside setting. Raharney itself has no accommodation, so this is the nearest bed if you want to stay in the parish rather than drive to Mullingar.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

1904, the Maher brothers and Peter Nea

A hurling parish in a football county

Raharney Rovers existed first as a football club - first mentioned in 1886, one of the early clubs in Westmeath. It went quiet, then came back in 1904 as a hurling club. The story the club tells of itself is that two stonemason brothers, Tom and Joe Maher, were working on the renovation of St Brigid's Church in the village and got friendly with a local man, Peter Nea. The three of them shared an interest in the GAA and revived the Rovers as hurlers. The first county senior hurling title came in 1913, beating Crooketwood 3-4 to 1-0. Westmeath has stayed a footballing county since. Raharney has stayed the parish that hurls.

Westmeath Senior Hurling Championship titles

Fifteen and counting

1913, 1914, 1919, 1967, 1973, 1984, 1992, 1994, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2014, 2016, 2021, 2023. Fifteen Westmeath Senior Hurling Championships, the last in October 2023. In a county where the senior hurling championship is contested by a small handful of clubs, Raharney is the bench-mark. The club today runs hurling and camogie together, almost exclusively concerned with the small ball, and the camogie side has its own collection of county finals.

A ringfort, then a ford, then a village

Ráth Fhearna

The name is straightforward Irish - Ráth Fhearna, read locally as the ringfort of the sloes or of an early figure named Fearna. The ringfort itself is a recorded National Monument (number 572) above the river. The triple-arched bridge over the Deel in the middle of the village was renovated in 1848 under a famine relief scheme; the form of the two western arches suggests Grand Jury work from around 1800, tied into a third heavily rusticated arch by the Board of Works in the mid-1800s. The roads into the village all slope down toward the river - a sign that before the bridge there was a ford, and before the ford there was probably the ráth above it. The village reached its peak in the early 1800s with around forty-five houses and a corn and saw mill that worked into the 1940s. A settlement folded around a crossing point, the way a lot of Irish villages did, and then a parish that found a sport.

An old graveyard on the riverbank

Kilcolumb

On a low hill by the Deel outside the village sits Kilcolumb, an unused graveyard on the site of an old church. There is little left above ground and no signage to speak of - the kind of quiet, half-forgotten ecclesiastical site that dots this part of the midlands. Worth a look only if you are the sort who stops at every old burial ground, but it is the oldest thread in the parish and it is real.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The bridge and the riverbank There is a small park and riverbank area beside the Deel by the bridge. Walk the length of the one street, stop on the triple-arched bridge, and follow the river a short way. Ten minutes end to end, twenty if you dawdle on the bridge, which is the point of the exercise.
1 km strolldistance
20 minutestime
Royal Canal Greenway at Thomastown Harbour About six kilometres away, the Royal Canal Greenway runs through Thomastown Harbour - a flat, traffic-free towpath you can walk or cycle east toward Enfield or west toward Mullingar. The National Famine Way long-distance trail follows the same canal. The greenway, not the village, is the real walking here.
as far as you likedistance
half a daytime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The Deel runs full, the canal greenway nearby is at its best, and the hurling league is under way at the pitch behind the church.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Championship season. A Sunday with Raharney at home is the day to come - the village doubles in size and The Granite fills afterwards. Otherwise a quiet, green stretch of east Westmeath.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

County final time. Raharney's most recent senior title was an October. If they are in it, this is the most alive the village gets all year.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days, little reason to make a special trip. The pub keeps going. Pass through rather than plan around it.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating it as a destination

Raharney is a place to pass through or to come to for a match, not a place to base a trip. Two hundred-odd people, one street, one pub. If you want a Westmeath base, use Mullingar. If you want a heritage day, use Trim across the Meath line. Raharney is a five-minute stop with one very good reason behind it.

×
Expecting a tourist trail

There is no visitor centre, no marked heritage loop, no signage walking you around the ringfort or Kilcolumb. The bridge, the river, the church and the pitch are the village. Come for the hurling or come for the bridge, and take the place honestly as the small midlands village it is.

+

Getting there.

By car

Mullingar to Raharney is 18 km on the R156 east, about 25 minutes. Trim is roughly 25 km east on the R156. Dublin is about 67 km via the M4 to Kinnegad, then north and east on the local roads.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 115/115A (the Dublin to Mullingar commuter service) stops in the village at Raharney (McHugh's) on weekdays, running via Kinnegad, Enfield and Maynooth to Dublin. Outside those times it is taxi or a lift.

By train

Nearest working station is Mullingar (18 km west) on the Dublin to Sligo line.

By air

Dublin Airport is about 80 km east, roughly 1h 15m by car via the M4 and M50.