Starting the Ring of Kerry from Killarney is the smart move. You’re already on the doorstep of the Iveragh Peninsula, which means no wasted hours getting to the starting point and a full 8 hours on the 179-kilometre loop itself. Compared to longer trips that factor in a Dublin transfer, you get the same scenery and arrive home in the evening with time to spare.
The first major stop at Caherdaniel brings you to Derrynane Beach, a blue-flag strand surrounded by sand dunes and rocky headlands. This was the home territory of Daniel O’Connell - the 19th-century political leader known as “The Liberator” - and the beach has a wild, unspoiled quality that makes you understand why he never wanted to leave. Further along the coast, Waterville sits on a narrow strip of land between the Atlantic and Lough Currane. It’s a popular spot for sea swimming and one of the most photogenic villages on the whole route.
The Skellig viewpoint catches many people off guard. From the mainland you can clearly see the pyramidal outline of Skellig Michael rising eight miles offshore - the same UNESCO World Heritage site that featured in the Star Wars sequel trilogy. On a clear day, watching that ancient monastic island against the Atlantic sky is genuinely striking.
Sneem is the kind of village that makes people fall in love with Kerry. Brightly painted houses surround a pair of village greens, and the whole place has a warmth to it that’s hard to leave. The return leg takes you over Moll’s Gap, where the mountain road climbs through the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks and delivers sweeping views over the Killarney lakes before dropping you back into town.
At Derrynane Beach (Caherdaniel stop): the beach sits inside Derrynane National Historic Park - the same demesne Daniel O’Connell grew up in. The OPW runs Derrynane House, which holds his library and the chapel he built in 1844, about a kilometre into the park from the strand. With a 30-minute stop, the beach itself is what you’ll see, but it’s worth knowing that the tidal causeway at the far western end leads to Abbey Island, where O’Connell’s wife Mary is buried in a ruined monastery - the monks can cross at low water. The Blind Piper pub in the village is the local spot for a bowl of chowder if there’s any time to spare. More on the beach, the house and the walks at Caherdaniel.
At Waterville: the village sits on a narrow neck of land between Lough Currane behind it and Ballinskelligs Bay in front. The bronze statue on the seafront is Charlie Chaplin, who came here every summer from 1959 onwards, staying at the Butler Arms Hotel and fishing the lake. The Lobster Bar on the main street is the obvious stop for a quick lunch if the schedule allows it. Waterville Golf Links at the north end of the village has been here since 1889 - Henry Cotton called it the finest links he had ever seen. The Skellig boats do not leave from Waterville; they leave from Portmagee, further north, if that’s something you want to plan separately. Full local detail at Waterville.
At Sneem: the Sneem River splits the village in two - North Square and South Square, connected by a single stone bridge. The Irish word snaidhm means knot, and the shape of the place earns it. Steve Crusher Casey, world heavyweight wrestling champion from 1938 to 1947, stands in bronze on South Square. The Blue Bull on South Square is the right pub if there’s time for a pint - stone walls, low ceilings, and a fire most evenings. A five-minute walk from South Square behind the church reaches the salmon cascades on the Sneem River, where the river drops in a series of stepped falls and salmon work their way up in autumn. It’s not signposted for coaches - find it on foot. More on Sneem.
Killarney in the evening: when you return to Killarney, the town is worth another hour if you haven’t eaten. Courtney’s Bar on Plunkett Street is the pub locals recommend - small room, sessions most nights from about half nine. Treyvaud’s on High Street has pan-fried Kerry venison and Kenmare Bay scallops if you want a proper dinner to close the day. The Killarney Farmers Market on New Market Street runs Fridays 10am-2pm if your visit falls on a Friday. Full guide at Killarney.