Tigh Mo Linne · Co. Kildare
A village of under a hundred people with a 13th-century knight carved in stone in the church porch - one of the oldest effigies in Ireland.
Timolin is a very small village on the R448 in south Kildare - the old N9, now bypassed by the M9 - about 80 kilometres south of Dublin. Fewer than a hundred people live here. There is one shop and two pubs, and Moone is less than a kilometre south down the same road. The name comes from Tigh Mo Linne, the house of St Moling, the 7th-century bishop-poet of Ferns, and a monastery associated with him is the seed the rest of the place grew from. That is the headline, but it is not the best thing here.
The best thing here is in the church. Saint Mullin's Church, the Church of Ireland building you see today, was built in 1738 and altered over the next century - a sandstone tower added around 1815, a chancel about 1823. Inside it holds a cut-granite sarcophagus dated to about 1250, and, more striking, a carved stone effigy of a knight in mail from the 13th century. Tradition ascribes the knight to Robert FitzRichard, Lord of Narragh, who in the reign of King John founded an Arroasian convent of nuns here and built a strong castle to go with it. It is held to be one of the earliest knight effigies in Ireland. To stand over an 800-year-old carved Norman in a small country church porch is the reason to make the turn off the motorway.
The history did not stay peaceful. In 1328 the church of St Moling was burned by Edmond le Boteler. Three centuries later, during the Irish Confederate Wars of the 1640s, a stronghouse in the village - full of civilians sheltering inside - was taken by an army under Ormonde, and after its capture around two hundred people were killed. The castle the FitzRichards built was taken in the same era and its garrison put to the sword. For a place this quiet now, the ground has seen a great deal.
South Kildare between Moone and Castledermot is not dramatic country. It is the flat hedge-bounded plain you cross to get somewhere else. But Timolin rewards the stop in a very specific way: a name that records a 7th-century saint, a nunnery and castle from the reign of King John, a 13th-century knight you can stand beside, and a massacre the textbooks mostly forget. The village is small. The history is not.