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Borrisokane
Buiríos Uí Chéin, Co. Tipperary

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 09 / 09
Buiríos Uí Chéin · Co. Tipperary

A cattle-market town on the road to Lough Derg - and Barry Lyndon grew up here.

Borrisokane is a north Tipperary market town that doesn't try to be anything else. The name - Buiríos Uí Chéin, the burgage of the Cianacht - points back to the Gaelic lords who held this land before the Normans arrived and the Cromwellians after them. The town you see today was largely laid out by the plantation settlers in the late seventeenth century: a wide main street, a fairgreen, a mill on the river. The bones are still there.

The Ballyfinboy River is the town's quiet fact. It rises somewhere near Moneygall, runs through Cloughjordan and Borrisokane, and finishes in Lough Derg 12 km to the west. That proximity to the lake is worth knowing - Borrisokane is a cheaper base for Lough Derg than Dromineer or Terryglass, and the drive in is fifteen minutes of north Tipperary countryside.

The town has one main food-and-drink destination that has been there for over a century: The Green 1918 on the Fairgreen. Chef-led, locally sourced, music on Wednesdays and weekends. It is not a discovery - it is simply a good pub restaurant that got old and kept its standards. Everything else you need to know about Borrisokane you'll find out by asking the person next to you at the bar.

One more thing: Andrew Robinson Stoney-Bowes grew up at Greyfort House in the parish. He married a countess by faking his own mortal wound on a stretcher and then spent years terrorising her. Thackeray heard the story, wrote it up as The Luck of Barry Lyndon, and Kubrick made the film. The house is long gone. The story travels well.

Population
1,117
Walk score
Town in ten minutes, mart in five more
Founded
Late 17th century (Cromwellian plantation)
Coords
52.9988° N, 8.1266° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Green 1918

All ages, local-heavy
Bar & restaurant, established 1918

On the Fairgreen, open seven days, serving breakfast through to evening meals. The in-house baker does scones and desserts daily. Wednesday sessions and live music at weekends. Rated high on Tripadvisor and it earns it - the kitchen does what it says, the bar stays a bar.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Green 1918 Bar & restaurant €€ Chef-led, locally sourced menu that runs from a Borrisokane breakfast through lunch to evening meals. The chili jam halloumi, the lemon sole, the bread-and-butter pudding - all made in-house. No shortcuts is the stated policy and the reviews confirm it.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Ashley Park House Country house B&B Six miles south on the Nenagh road, on the shores of Lough Ourna. An 18th-century country house in 76 acres of beech woodland. Rowboat on the private lake, trout fishing, four-course dinners in the main house. Not budget - but the breakfast alone is worth the drive out.
Airbnb and self-catering around Lough Derg Self-catering Borrisokane itself has limited accommodation. The lake shore west of town - toward Portumna and Terryglass - has more self-catering cottages than you can count, and most of them sit within a twenty-minute drive of the town.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The man who inspired the film

Barry Lyndon

Andrew Robinson Stoney-Bowes (1747-1810) grew up at Greyfort House in the Borrisokane parish. He was an Anglo-Irish adventurer who married the widowed Countess of Strathmore by faking a mortal wound in a duel - carried to the altar on a stretcher, made a miraculous recovery immediately after the ceremony. He then spent the marriage abusing her, eventually abducting her and dragging her through the countryside in a freezing winter. He was tried, convicted, and jailed. William Thackeray heard the story from the Countess's grandson and wrote it up as The Luck of Barry Lyndon in 1844. Kubrick made the film in 1975. Stoney-Bowes is the partial model for Barry; Greyfort House is gone.

3 June 1921

The Modreeny Ambush

Three weeks before the Truce, the North Tipperary Flying Column under Commandant Seán Gaynor ambushed an RIC and Black and Tan patrol on the R490 between Borrisokane and Cloughjordan, at Kylebeg Cross near Modreeny. The patrol - 28 constables travelling by car and bicycle to a petty session in Cloughjordan - was hit hard. Four RIC officers were killed, the column withdrew safely. A centenary commemoration and official marker were unveiled at the site in 2021.

The building is still standing

The Barracks Attack, 1920

On 26 June 1920, around 200 IRA volunteers attacked the RIC barracks in Borrisokane. The attack failed to breach the walls but damaged the building badly enough that it was evacuated the next day. One IRA volunteer was killed - Micheál Ó Cinnéide, an uncle of the later government minister Michael O'Kennedy. The building that was attacked is now the town's Garda station.

What the name means

The Cianacht's Burgage

The Irish name Buiríos Uí Chéin means 'the burgage of the Cianacht' - a burgage being a medieval market plot held by burgesses in a planned town. The O'Carrolls of Ely, who claimed descent from the Cianacht, held this territory before the Normans arrived. Theobald Fitzwalter, ancestor of the Butlers, came in with the Normans. Then the O'Kennedys. Then Cromwell's grantees. The town has been argued over for a long time.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Ballyfinboy River Walk The river runs west out of town toward Lough Derg. No formal looped trail exists - this is a road-and-field-path combination - but following the river downstream from the town gives you 12 km of north Tipperary countryside before you reach the lake at Drominagh. Worth exploring if you have a car at the far end.
3-5 km each waydistance
Variabletime
Lough Derg Blueway (by bike) E-bike rental operates in the area with routes connecting Cloughjordan, Borrisokane and the eastern Lough Derg shore through Dromineer and Terryglass. The 28 km loop is the practical one for a day out. The lake views from the eastern shore justify the saddle time.
Loops of 11 km, 28 km, 46 kmdistance
Half day to full daytime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

North Tipperary at its greenest. The Lough Derg shore is quiet, the country roads empty. Farmers' mart days give the town a useful mid-week energy.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The lake is busy - sailors, cruisers, families - but Borrisokane itself stays low-key. A good base if Dromineer or Terryglass are full. The evenings are long and the countryside is worth it.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The lake crowd thins, the countryside turns. Borrisokane is a working town and autumn is when it feels most like itself - mart season, school run, the pub full on a Friday.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Quiet. The Green 1918 stays open and is the right place to be in January when the rain is horizontal. Everything else in the area closes or slows right down.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving through without stopping

Borrisokane sits on the N52, which is a reasonable route between Birr and Nenagh. Most people drive straight through. The Green 1918 is the reason not to.

×
Expecting a tourist town

There is no heritage trail, no visitor centre, no castle to climb. It's a market town. If you want that, come on a mart day, eat in the pub, and buy something at the butcher. That's the experience.

+

Getting there.

By car

Nenagh to Borrisokane is 15 km north on the N52 - about 15 minutes. Birr (Co. Offaly) is 24 km northeast on the N52. Portumna (Co. Galway) is 22 km west on the N65. Shannon Airport is about 55 km south.

By bus

Bus Éireann Route 324 (Kilbarron to Nenagh via Borrisokane) runs several times daily. Journey to Nenagh is around 20 minutes. Local Link Tipperary also covers the area on a more limited schedule.

By train

No train. Nearest station is Nenagh, then bus or taxi (15 km, about 15 minutes).